ORLANDO, Fla. – There are moments that ignite excitement, especially when crossing off items from a bucket list. When an opportunity to bicycle across Florida presented itself, I eagerly accepted the challenge.
Having spent the previous year indulging in adventure—an eight-day kayaking journey on the St. Johns River and a multi-day hike on the Ocean to Lake Hiking Trail—the urge for another thrilling experience was irresistible.
A friend from Adventure Cycling, Kevin Bolton, reached out around Thanksgiving to invite me on a self-supported coast-to-coast cycling trip, joined by bike mechanic Ben Chalone, who had crafted the route. Together, we planned to traverse the Sunshine State over several days and 270 miles, starting at St. Pete Beach and ending at Ormond Beach, all while navigating through the lush trails of the Nature Coast and the ancient sand dunes of Ocala National Forest.
Preparing for the Journey
Although my cycling experiences mostly consisted of day trips, I had embarked on a week-long bikepacking journey from Pittsburgh to Washington, D.C., back in 2014. This adventure, however, would be different as we opted for dirt trails rather than paved paths, requiring my full-suspension mountain bike to be outfitted with camping gear and clothing bags.
I borrowed essential equipment from J.C. Mazza, a bikepacking enthusiast from a local bike shop, while also putting in the necessary training to prepare my body for the rigorous trip. In the weeks leading up to our February 15 departure, I focused on getting into biking shape, completing four consecutive rides of 20 to 25 miles each to strengthen my legs.
Day 1: Conquering the First Century
On the trail: 5:35 a.m.
Set up camp: 5:45 p.m.
Weather: High 83, low 71; mostly sunny and breezy
Mileage: 101
With energy drinks and steadfast determination, I made my way to Upham Beach Park in St. Pete Beach well before dawn, thanks to my supportive girlfriend’s midnight drive. As daylight broke, we marked the start of our journey by wheeling our bikes across the sandy beach to dip our tires in the Gulf.
The first leg brought us northward on the paved Pinellas Trail, encountering numerous road crossings and hilly bridges. Once the sun was fully up, we enjoyed a respite in the shade of Jay B. Starkey Wilderness Park, a lush area of over 8,300 acres, where we took in the natural beauty away from the urban sprawl.
However, our journey soon turned challenging as we encountered the midday heat on the Suncoast Trail, just a fence standing between us and the busy Suncoast Parkway. We took a break beneath the Spirit Tree, a magnificent live oak adorned with ornaments and wind chimes, as we savored BBQ brisket sandwiches at the Florida Cracker Cook Shack during a long stop in Brooksville. After a quick resupply at a gas station, we pedaled along the Good Neighbor Trail for a scenic 10 miles, culminating in our impromptu campsite for the night.
Despite being exhausted after more than eight hours of riding, crossing the 100-mile threshold for my first century brought immense joy. The camaraderie and accomplishment that day made for an unforgettable experience.
Day 2: Battling the Elements
On the trail: 9 a.m.
Set up camp: 7:45 p.m.
Weather: High 80, low 46; partly cloudy with a brief downpour
Mileage: 60
Following the strenuous first day, we allowed ourselves a leisurely start, aiming to tackle ‘only’ 60 miles. After warm breakfast coffee from Ben’s wood-burning stove, we departed camp at 9 a.m. Our first adventure took us through the winding Croom mountain bike trails.
The morning progressed beautifully until gray clouds amassed, leading to an unexpected downpour just as we reached a 10-mile stretch of roadway alongside fast-moving traffic. Drenched and feeling battered, we pressed on, inspired by an adventurous spirit despite the uncertainty of the storm.
As we reached Ross Prairie Campground, the weather turned noticeably cooler, leaving us searching for shelter from the elements. However, the sun re-emerged as we pedaled onto the picturesque Cross Florida Greenway Trail, an impressive stretch of 110 miles of public space and trail systems.
A minor setback occurred when Ben discovered a bulge in my rear tire, prompting me to contact Santos Bike Shop for a replacement. After a satisfying dinner at Zella’s Pizzeria, I felt grateful as we set up camp for the night, surrounded by comradery and laughter.
Day 3: Wilderness Exploration
On the trail: 8:30 a.m.
Set up camp: 7:45 p.m.
Weather: High 68, low 48; mostly sunny and mild
Mileage: 62
Waking up to chilly air, I faced a sore body as I unzipped my tent for day three. A warm shower and hot breakfast at Santos Campground offered comfort after days of cycling.
Once back on the road, we delved into the wild landscapes of Florida, with a detour through Marshall Swamp, pausing to capture photos of the stunning cypress domes. Following a stretch of paved roads, we ventured into Ocala National Forest, only to confront challenging deep sugar sand.
With determination, we traversed newly graded dirt roads, barely encountering anyone along the way. The mood lifted as we sighted Florida scrub-jays, an indication of the local fauna. Captivated by their playful nature, we counted nearly a dozen scrub-jays as they curiously watched us.
Our next stop at Sparky’s Place Restaurant in Astor delighted our taste buds with delicious swamp pizza as we shared conversations about the trip. After a fulfilling meal, we ventured into Lake George State Forest, setting up camp under the stars at the day’s end.
Day 4: The Final Stretch
On the trail: 8:20 a.m.
Finished: 3:45 p.m.
Weather: High 68, low 57; partly cloudy and pleasant
Mileage: 47
Excitement amped up on our final day. The promise of tailwinds buoyed my spirits despite my sore limbs. Plus, we had De Leon Springs in our sights for breakfast—home to the make-your-own pancakes that I had raved about.
After indulging in pancakes, we made our way to Daytona Beach’s International Speedway Boulevard, contending with headwinds—a stark contrast to our earlier expectations. We made our way through Tiger Bay State Forest before hitting the bustling traffic of Ormond Beach.
The excitement built as we approached our destination, culminating with a thrilling finish atop the Granada Boulevard Bridge, where water met land. When we finally arrived at the beach, the celebration began. My girlfriend and her dog awaited, and we captured the moment with tires meeting ocean waves.
Cycling across Florida provided a unique lens through which to experience the diverse landscapes and ecosystems of the state. Despite the physical challenges and moments of discomfort, the adventure deepened my appreciation for the Sunshine State.
As I completed the journey, fatigue plagued my legs, but the thought of doing it again filled me with excitement. This trip had indeed etched itself into my memory as a remarkable experience of camaraderie and resilience.
https://www.yahoo.com/lifestyle/across-florida-4-days-high-090000558.html
